My big news

It has been a while since you've heard from, I know. I've been back two weeks from our long "summer" vacation which just happens to take place in the middle of the school year. 7 solid weeks of travelling and exploring (more on that later) didn't really leave much time for anything else. Some of you know that I decided that I was not going to renew my contract in Paraguay and would be looking to move on after finishing up my two years. As part of my vacation I spent a week in San Francisco at a job fair and yes, I ended up with a new job, a new school, and a new country for next year! In July I will be moving to New Delhi, India to work at the American Embassy School. I am not sure that I can tell you a whole lot, except that I now realize I'll be in the 7th largest country in the world, in a city with a population over 14 million. It will sure be a big change from Paraguay which has a total population of 5 million! I will be teaching high school math although I don't know specifically what yet. The math department is in starting a process to introduce a new curriculum which means that things are going to be gradually changing each year. However, the principal and the department head seem to have a clear idea of where they are going so I am not too worried.

What can I tell you about the school? It seems to have a good reputation in the international school circuit as everyone I spoke with that had heard of it had good things to say, from teachers to parents. There are around 1450 students from Kindergarten to grade 12 from 53 different countries. I believe the largest percentage is the 35% Americans, which means I should be teaching at a school that is actually international this time around. The high school has 418 students so it is about twice as larger as the school I have been teaching at but should still be small enough that I will know most of the students. There are 7 teachers in the math department and the school seems to offer the AP and the IB diploma programs. When I asked the director about staff retention I was very encouraged to hear that in the 10 years he has been there only three people have left after their initial contract was up. It looks like I'll have a great new school to start exploring another part of the world from!

Iguazu Falls

Once you pay your entrance fee and enter on the Brazilian side a bus runs from the welcome center around the park making stops at some of the attractions. We got off the bus at the cataracts walk and as we stepped off we could already hear the falls – a light background noise which only increases as you get closer and closer to the falls. By the time you reach the end of the trail and are right up by the waterfall the power of the water makes so much noise you can’t even speak above it. There is nothing to do but be overwhelmed by the sight and sound of Iguazu Falls.

The trail heads down away from the road. You turn the corner and the first view of the falls opens up. Falls with an s is the correct word. This section seems as if it is made up of about 20 to 30 different waterfalls scattered across two different levels. The view is so impressive it is hard to believe that this is not even the most amazing part of the falls. Stand and stare for a while, take more pictures than should be necessary, move on. Luckily for us there are not many people there during the Thanksgiving weekend and we don’t have to battle for a good view. After just a few minutes in front of the falls I can already feel my stress melting away, being washed down river by the incessant passage of the water. Continue down the path and we follow along the side of the waterfall. Enjoying the views from every angle I am occasionally distracted by the butterflies, worms, spiders and quati. As we venture down the trail a bit more, the view of the waterfalls is obstructed by all of the trees but the sound gets steadily louder. Suddenly the view opens up again and I realize what had amazed me before wasn’t even the main part of the falls. Here is the widest falls I’ve ever seen with an enormous amount of power (no wonder the equivalent has been enough to power all of Paraguay and 50% of Brazil running only 1/5 of the year at Itapu Dam). The best part is the realization that the path leads out over the water and we will be able to get remarkably close to the water – right in front of it in fact. A goofy grin is on my face and it is as if I am a little high on the power of nature. And I truly do mean power. It is a bit like intruding on a bit of mystical magic from early days – as it does not seem that much could make any sort of difference in the view. It is out of time and one of those reminders of just how forceful nature can be. The view from right beside the falls, and then later up on an observation deck above the falls, does nothing to dissuade me. This is truly one of the most amazing things I’ve seen in my life. Grand, impressive, powerful and overwhelming in an entirely new way.

Would you like a straw with that?

One of the things I’ve noticed here is that I am quite often asked if I would like a straw with a drink that I have purchased. I don’t mean when I’m at a restaurant or sitting down (although that is normal as well). No, when I stop at a little corner store to pick up a drink because it is so hot out, as I am handed my change I am also usually given a straw. The other day I was at the grocery store and had bought a small bottle of orange juice. When I went to be my school bag from the bag check the woman behind the counter saw me pull out the bottle of juice and was quick to bring over a straw for me. I guess in some ways it makes sense. When you’re walking down the street it is easier to sip through a straw then drink from the bottle. You are much less likely to spill on yourself. But it also seems to me that the way most soft drink or bottled juice containers are designed now they form a small enough opening that you don’t really have to worry about excess liquid pouring out. The only time I haven’t been offered a straw is when I buy a bottle of water. I don’t know what makes the difference. Perhaps, it wouldn’t stain my clothes if I did make a mess? I’m not going to say I exactly understand the obsession with straws (does it all go back to the bombillo with the terere?) but I will probably continue to make use of them when they are offered. Just one more little Paraguay habit that I can incorporate into my life here.

Indian Dance

Last week I received an invitation by email to a night of classical and folk Indian dance. This occurs once a year in Asuncion, when the Indian ambassador, who is stationed in Buenos Aires, makes his visit to Paraguay. The embassy and the Indian community here go all out for the visit and are an excuse for me to get a bit of culture into my week, as well as some good food (as they also bring an Indian chef to the Hilton to prepare a week of “Indian food fest”). Having gone last year I was positive that I would take the time to go watch the dance this year. It is an excuse to step a bit out of Paraguay for a few hours. The steps leading to the venue sported colored rice designs. Candles flickered in the foyer. Waiters circled with Indian treats and drinks. Soon we were herded into the auditorium where traditional music and dance awaited us. With a steady rhythm pounding and a flute floating above, the night’s entertainment began. I sat enthralled by the women’s ability to control their bodies. Isolating body parts, holding awkward poses without falling, telling a story in their movement. I was able to escape my existence for a few hours as I became immersed in the dance and music on offer, a change from the traditional Paraguayan folkdance to a polka.

Election Day

Sunday was election day all around Paraguay. Cities and town were voting for their new mayor. The past weeks and months have been full of heavy campaigning for the vote. After asking several people I have found out some interesting tidbits about election day, at least here in Asuncion. Typically schools function as the voting places, even ASA managed to host the neighborhood vote (which meant we were informed that we would not be allowed on campus after 2pm on Saturday). I head through various people that a lot of effort is put into minimizing the congregation of people during the weekend of the election – groups were not allowed to actively campaign after Thursday (which has made for much quieter streets this weekend as recently I have been passed by at least one large vehicle bearing election propaganda and blaring music and advertisements every time I have walked around). Bars and restaurants are supposed to close down earlier this weekend (was it just Saturday, just Sunday, or both days? I really don’t know – the more answers I got the more questions I had!). When I went into the grocery store on Sunday the entire alcohol section was closed off with a sign notifying patrons that by law the store was not allowed to sell alcohol on the day of the election. It seems that they have made several attempts to keep things from getting out of control or bloody (perhaps a reflection of how unsettling changes of power in the country have been in the past – usually accomplished by killing the person currently in the position of power). All I know for sure is that Asuncion, and the other towns in Paraguay, should have a new mayor soon and that there is plethora of advertising plastered along the streets.

Country Artists

Past all of the traffic of Asuncion and San Lorenzo, through the town of Ita, take a left turn onto a country road. In the middle of, well, pretty much nowhere, we pulled over in front of a house. The sign outside read Arte en Barro. We had arrived at the workshop and home of a mother daughter pair of sculptors, Juana Martha Rodas and Julia Isidrez. Here they work with just the most basic of tools – clay, their hands and a simple firing oven – to produce pieces of artwork which have been recognized internationally. They each have their own unique style (I must admit to being personally attracted to the work of the daughter, Julia Isidrez) really the first arts I’ve seen in Paraguay that I can truly say that I like. This trip was the result of admiring some of the ceramics in my principal’s office and asking repeatedly if we could take a trip out to visit the artist. I finally hit upon a day when his wife was visiting and a plan to go take us out was soon in place. An hour drive took us to this small house where we were warmly welcomed by Julia and apologetically informed that Juana was not feel well today (we did get to meet her, a small old woman with sparkles in her eyes, before we left). We were encouraged to wander through the house, picking up and touching anything we wanted. Julia proudly unveiled a few wet pieces that she was working on, informing us that some of them were an order placed by the French Ambassador’s wife. Out back we found an overhang which housed a display of their work. Among the different types of work I, of course, fell in love with a few. After much debate and effort to discern which were my truly favorite I picked out three pieces – a large bowling ball sized piece which makes me giggle each time I look at it, a bowl with two dinosaur heads as handles and a smaller round animal. I realized that I preferred a definite style of their work, but was thrilled to find that I did love it! I had no idea of how much I might spend on these three pieces and in the end walked away feeling like not only did I end up with some artwork I love but I got an amazing deal on it (as I spent less than $20 total). What a worthwhile afternoon out it turned out to be!

Water

Water. What does it mean to you? How much do you take your water for granted. When you think of water, do you think of nature's bounty...streams, rivers, oceans, rainfall? Or do you think of the miracle you get out of the tap every time you turn the faucet? Do you realize just how lucky you are to have the miracle of plumbing? Can you even imagine what it would be like to live without running water? This past weekend I had my bathroom water shut off due to a pipe leak which lead to a substantial amount of water on the kitchen floor. Even though I all the other water in the house worked, and I just had to borrow another bathroom it seemed like such a major inconvenience. Which makes me question how in the world I ever dealt with having to haul my own water from a pump for two years while living in Guinea. My daily existence involved carrying 45 pounds of water on my head for 400 meters to about half a mile (I can honestly say that carrying on top of your head is the easiest way to carry that kind of weight that kind of distance), washing dishes in a bucket, taking a bath from a bucket, praying my water was clean as I didn't want to keep drinking bleached water, considering every possible way to conserve said water (it is amazing how little water you can use in a day if you try), hoping that really was the sound of thunder because it meant I could catch rainwater to use, all while trying to ensure I consumed 5-8 liters of clean water a day to balance out the heat.

I had it easy. I had a safe water source. I had a relatively close water source. I had closed container to carry my water in. Not everyone is that lucky. Did you know that every day in Africa women and children walk a combined total of 109 million hours to get water? Did you know that unsafe drinking water and lack of sanitation kills more people every year than all forms of violence, war included? Up to 42,000 each week? Did you know that the average American uses 159 gallons of water every day? Can you even think of all the times you are using that water? That makes the 2-4 gallons I used a day seem impossible How little do you think you could manage to use for just one day? Want more scary facts? Check this out.

It is blog action day. Start thinking about water, your access to it and others access to it. Consider what it would be like to be one of those others. Imagine how different your life would be. Consider action of some form.

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